Custom-Made: Then and Now

People often joke that shopping is Singapore’s national sport and, like the rest of the island, it has evolved drastically over the past 50 years. Read all about it in the June/July issue of the Singapore American Newspaper:

 

Custom embroidery by Zann & Denn

Envision shopping in Singapore and it’s usually Orchard Road that pops into your head, a beacon of modernity, overflowing with brand name designers from all over the world. But just a few decades ago, a shopping spree here was a much different affair. Until store-bought fashion became readily available in the 1970s, tailors and dressmakers met all sartorial needs. Well-to-do society women would purchase paper sewing patterns from Robinsons, arguably Singapore’s most well-known department store, and then trawl for bales of fabric in the array of shops on High Street. Even celebrities like Elizabeth Taylor were known to visit these luxurious made-to-measure shops for one-of-a-kind gowns.

According to local musician Vernon Cornelius (affectionately known as the ‘Cliff Richard’ of Singapore), the start of the nation’s style consciousness was in the 1960s, when television and rock music came to the island. But in order to dress themselves in outfits they considered a “sincere form of expressing our own identity,” most young people like Cornelius had to save for weeks or months for custom, made-to-measure clothes. A far cry from the stockpile of cheap clothing now available at the click of a button.

While the nation’s love of shopping and fashion have in no way diminished, tailors have had to adjust to the times. The prevalence of online shopping has reduced the requests for made-to-measure clothes but has increased the demand for alterations. Fabric stores are fewer. Today, most are grouped together on Arab Street or in People’s Park Complex. Sewing has also become a less common skill, so the average age of dressmakers is rising, with fewer apprentices to take their places.

Suzanne Chua, a graduate of Raffles LaSalle, considers herself one of the youngest in the industry. “And I’m nearly fifty,” she laughs.

Chua and then-boyfriend-now-husband Dennis Koh jointly launched Zann & Denn in August 1997, currently located on Kreta Ayer Road, a few steps from Duxton Hill and Chinatown. Despite the challenges facing the industry, Chua remains hopeful that there will continue to be a market for bespoke clothing. After all, she notes, it’s not merely shopping. It’s an experience. And there’s nothing quite like owning something completely unique.

For Chua, maintaining her career in the made-to-measure industry has gone hand-in-hand with adaptation. She recently began collaborating with Universal Studios Singapore to create costumes for enormously popular events like Halloween Horror Nights. She comments that the free range to be creative in designing costumes has been invigorating.

“Passion is what keeps you going when the market is low. I’m not a person who gives up easily,” Chua says. “There were many, many tailors; it depends on who perseveres.”

If you’d like to further explore Singapore’s rich fashion history, check out the book Fashion Most Wanted by John de Souza, Cat Ong and Tom Rao.

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Buying Books in Singapore

For the Sept 2017 issue of the Singapore American Newspaper, which is all about shopping, I got to ramble on about one of my favourite hobbies: buying books! 

Physical books are basically the best thing on the planet. Unfortunately, when you move between countries on said planet, your library can get awfully heavy (and costly) to take with you. Although it’s easy enough to fill your shelves in Singapore should you miss the crates of books you left in storage, even the most casual bibliophile will notice that prices here are higher than in the US. Don’t despair just yet! Researching your options will save you money and get you inhaling that delicious book smell in no time.

The Big Guys

Singapore’s largest bookstore is Japanese chain Kinokuniya in Ngee Ann City, with smaller branches elsewhere in the country. Though Kinokuniya’s Japanese section is expectedly robust, it is far from the only offering, as the store has expansive fiction and non-fiction sections, everything from old classics to new bestsellers to cookbooks to graphic novels to magazines to travel guides. The prices – especially for new or hardback books – make me wince, but the selection is hard to beat. MPH, Times and POPULAR are other bookstore chains that can be found in multiple locations across the island. Keep an eye out for their sales, as you can often find some steals.

The Indie Bookstores

I’m a huge advocate of supporting independently-owned bookstores and since prices in Singapore are expensive anyway, I might as well put my money towards these community lynchpins. Manned by three indifferent cats and some passionate people, BooksActually in Tiong Bahru is a hub of the Singapore literature scene that features a variety of literary events, including readings by local writers. Just down the street is the adorable Woods in the Books, which specializes in thoughtfully-curated young children’s books. Taking up two stories in a cozy shophouse on Duxton Hill, Littered with Books has the personal air of a librarian’s home. The staff are happy to give you recommendations, but will also let you browse undisturbed for hours. Bliss.

Secondhand Books

For those more focused on content than presentation or those excited to spend an hour digging through piles of titles, pre-loved books are the way to go. Singapore isn’t big on secondhand items, but there are three well-established used bookstores that will serve you well, both in price and selection: Ana Bookstore in Far East Plaza, Book Treasure in Parklane Shopping Mall and Evernew Bookstore, which spills out of Bras Basah Complex onto the street. Happy hunting!

Specialty Bookstores

Sometimes your love of a subject goes deeper than what can be found on the average bookseller’s shelves. Also in Bras Basah Complex, Basheer Graphic Books’ astounding selection of books and magazines makes it a mecca for anyone fascinated by design in any iteration, whether it’s architecture, fashion, animation, typography – you name it. For those who don’t mess around in their love of the printed word, there’s GOHD Books on Bencoolen Street. Specializing in rare tomes and first editions (some from as far back as 1595), their stock isn’t cheap but it will make any book collector salivate. If you’re captivated by the continent we live on, look no further than Select Books, whose archive of publications on Asia is so wide, they supply resources to universities, researchers, libraries and governments (including the US Library of Congress). If their retail store in Toa Payoh is out of your way, you can also order from them online.

The Internet

The Internet, of course, is the most convenient source of books. However, don’t think Amazon is your only option, especially now that their Southeast Asia launch has been pushed back. Shipping costs hike the price up and although used books from third-party sellers on Amazon can be wildly discounted, you’ll find that many won’t ship internationally.

Your golden ticket is Book Depository. Though books often appear more expensive than Amazon at first glance, once shipping costs are added, you’ll find Book Depository to be cheaper as they offer free shipping to anywhere in the world. They also don’t require you to create an account to make a purchase. No store’s selection of books can beat Amazon’s, but Book Depository does come close. If you want faster delivery times, OpenTrolley is a Singapore-based online bookseller with prices comparable to local brick-and-mortar stores.

For the bibliophile who wants to support their reading addiction and support others simultaneously, Better World Books not only has free shipping worldwide and an enormous assortment of new and used books, but also donates a book to someone in need for every book purchased. As of today, they’ve donated over 23 million books and raised over $25 million dollars for literacy programs, including the non-profit Room to Read. Thanks to them, you can feel good about restocking your library, no matter where on the planet you find yourself.

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A Mac’n’Cheese Tour of Singapore

Published on September 1, 2014 in the Singapore American Newspaper:

It’s no secret that you can tour Singapore on your stomach. New flavors and exciting spices can be found in almost every corner. But sometimes, no matter how delicious the nasi lemak or how tempting the char kway teow, you just want something unhealthy and American for dinner. And if you’re going to indulge in proper, gooey mac’n’cheese, then you may as well explore the city while you’re at it. Here’s my roadmap for discovering Singapore’s neighborhoods while feasting on this all-American comfort food.

OverEasy at One Fullerton. OverEasy might just be the perfect place for a person’s first night in Singapore. If you’re still woozy from the jetlag and your stomach isn’t up for chili crab yet, zip down to One Fullerton for American diner food. After making acquaintances with the famous Merlion, you can tuck into OverEasy’s Good Old-Fashioned Mac & Cheese while being dazzled by the Marina Bay Sands’ nightly laser show. However, I’m a sucker for their Truffled Mac & Cheese with Wild Mushrooms. You can also indulge in other American classics like homemade lemonade and beef sliders. Afterwards, wander along the bay front and enjoy the breeze.

Pique Nique Mac’n’Cheese

Pique Nique at Ngee Ann City, Orchard. Any introductory tour of Singapore would be remiss without a thorough exploration of Orchard, which is like a combination of Times Square and Fifth Avenue. It’s a shopper’s paradise during the day (if your wallet can stand it) and it’s a brightly-lit spectacle at night. Whenever you find your energy flagging, stop by Pique Nique for a hot serving of their Roasted Chicken and Mushroom Mac & Cheese. Located in the basement of the elegant Takashimaya department store, this underrated restaurant is a perfect rest stop for tired shoppers hungry for filling, perfectly-seasoned comfort food (including whoopie pies and five types of fries).

Brewerkz, Clarke Quay. Another touchstone in the expat nightlife of Singapore, this restaurant and microbrewery has been in business since 1997. And since nothing goes better with handcrafted beer than quality bar food, that’s just what Brewerkz delivers. Their mac’n’cheese is true to the soul of the dish (no vegetables here!) and has that perfect texture: crispy on top, chewy in the middle. Clarke Quay has a lot of Western restaurants but few have been created by Americans for Americans. Nevertheless, the riverside is a thriving hub of activity and once you’ve had your fill of mac’n’cheese, you can stroll down to both Boat Quay and Robertson Quay.

Latteria Mozzarella, Duxton Hill. One of the unfortunate truths for Westerners who have moved to Singapore is that quality cheese is sometimes hard-to-find, expensive, or both. But Latteria Mozzarella is a godsend to any cheese-lovers searching for a classy evening out. Even their mac’n’cheese has been elegantly upgraded by its being served in a hollowed pumpkin. The gourd isn’t just for show though. The rich lining of pumpkin adds an unexpected oomph to the mac’n’cheese without overwhelming those homey flavors you love so much. The Duxton Hill area is always bubbling with nightlife and is a picturesque neighborhood that features Singapore’s classic shophouses.

28 HongKong Street, Chinatown. One of the city’s hidden gems, 28HKS is a glamorous speakeasy known for its obscure location and exemplary cocktails. It’s been lauded in TimeOut Singapore and the Wall Street Journal but neither article mentioned one of the bar’s biggest attractions for me: the mac’n’cheese balls. Crispy on the outside, hot and gooey on the inside, these mac’n’cheese balls are the perfect intersection of luxury and familiarity. There’s no fancier way to eat this beloved dish in Singapore and as 28HKS is tucked right next to Chinatown, it’s a perfect beginning or end to a night of exploring one of the city’s most historical districts.

Whether you’re looking for classic mac’n’cheese or for a twist on this old favorite, Singapore obliges. Everyone has his or her own way of settling in to a new home, so who’s to say you can’t explore this dynamic Asian city via comfort food?

 

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